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Thursday, 20 November 2014

World travel days 3&4 - Erg Chicaga: sand boarding and the sun

 I wake up lazily on my first and only full day at the camp, fighting the urge to lie in further,  having I the night freezing. The camp attendants let me know that breakfast is ready whenever I want it, but I decide to wash first and a bucket of hot water is brought to me five minutes later. I then have breakfast and see the only other guests leave - I now have the camp to myself. I request to ride a camel and go sand boarding.

Riding a camel isn't as uncomfortable as I thought and provided a great vantage point to view the endless array of dunes. We soon arrive at the big dunes and I try my best to make it to the bottom, which I don't (see the video for a collection of wipe outs). I noticed that I got better as the morning went on, but soon it was time to call it a day (or rather morning) and head back.

We get back in time for lunch and I spend the hotter part of the afternoon on a hammock reading while two new guests arrive. I then grab a board and take my second shot at the dunes. 

This time I do a lot better, getting to the bottom of several dunes. The key I find is to concentrate on something in the distance and try not to worry about how fast you are going. That being said I did hit my shoulder pretty hard, an injury I instantly knew would be with me for a few days (it's all better now though). While dune boarding I watched the sun set, which was magical. I thought I had captured it and the evening's activities on my GoPro, only to realise that I had been out of sync. turning the camera off before going down the dunes and back on when I reached the bottom. I also hadn't realised that I had put it onto a setting that took photos every few second rather than filming. This however turned out to be a brilliant mistake as I have some amazing photos of the sunset, which you can see on the video.

I then have dinner with the new guests, Ollie and Ellie, a really nice couple from Wandsworth who are doing a tour of Morocco. We exchange travelling stories and I learn that Ollie has recently become an economist and that Ellie works in marketing. They tell me that I looked pretty proficient with a dune board, as they had seen me while watching the sun set themselves. I put this down to the fact that the lower half of my dune was obscured to them, so they couldn't see my many face plants!

Day 3: I wake up during the night with a very sore shoulder in the freezing cold, though I had prepared and was in a sleeping bag under the duvets. I struggle to ignore my shoulder but eventually get up and soak a hand towel in cold water to use as a compress, which helps and I soon manage to get to sleep, but not for long as my alarm sounds meaning it's time to get up and see the sunrise. It's tempting to stay in bed, but I forsake my napping and go out into the very fresh, very cool and very still morning  and boy was it worth it. Just as with the sunset, I'm totally blown away, this time with how the landscape goes from twilight to bright sunshine in a matter of minutes, the dunes casting dramatic, dancing shadows as the sun pierces the horizon. It's also hard to quite explain the stillness and quiet of the new day, which is totally silent with the exception of the occasional chatter of birds and camels, the latter making rather bizarre but conversational noises.

I then head back to my tent and wearily pack my bag and head to breakfast. I am joined by Ollie, with Ellie following soon after and we chat about the previous night and the couple's plans to sand board, go trekking, camel riding and quad biking, all of which I am sad to miss, but, with breakfast now over, it's time to go. Hitcham is by the entrance and we head off toward Marrakech.

The way back is much clearer and having taken a different route, we soon stop in a dried up sea bed where Hitcham points out fossils. It's bizarre to think that at any time this dry landscape could have been under water. We then jump
Back in the car to a rug making co-operative where I have tea with the owner and then onto an Argan oil co-operative where the owner explains how they get the oil and how the business, which employs local orphans, helps the local people. I also take a look at their products and after a demonstration come out with very moisturised hands smelling of various local plants.

Co-operatives seem to be the largest for of trade between local people and tourists, with many people contributing to each store.

We then stop off at a small roadside restaurant where I have a tagine of beef and prunes, along with bread and local Argan oil and nut butter with honey. 

We make quick time and I get to the hostel early with the help of a guide. I memorise the route for the morning after. 

The next morning we head to Casablanca for my flight which I can't find on the boards. I'm then told the flight is going the next day. Something that had escaped my notice when the travel agent changed the flight time. I kick myself for not checking the details more thoroughly and indulge in a little panic before making a plan of action. I get the train into town and find an Internet cafe and arrange accommodation across town. I have to admit I didn't think much of Casablanca and decided to stay close to the hotel where I had dinner before getting an early night. At least it would have been if I had not come down with an aggressive form of the flu, which almost stopped me getting the flight to Las Palmas. I do have to say though that the staff at the hotel were amazing, bringing me mint tea and yoghurt to help my stomach free of charge throughout the morning.  

Oh and a Moroccan man stopped me in the street to say I had a very Moroccan face, which was nice. 

And that's it, my Moroccan journey is complete.

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