Cape Town

So this is the third time of writing this post due to notes destroying all my notes  for no apparent reason, then the blogger app refreshing to the home page and not saving a draft. I mean seriously it's an f*ing joke!

Rant over.

So Cape Town... This is a brilliant city which combines natural beauty (mountains, coastline and green spaces) plus city living (events, nightlife and shopping). Like many before me, I'm going to say, I could live here.

I stayed at The Sunflower Stop which is an amazing backpackers. The staff (Jon, Forrest and Andrew) all made us feel really welcome. Jon took a group of us out drinking, Forrest showed me around town, went to Truth coffee and played putt putt with me and Andrew and I grabbed lunch with his girlfriend Lotta.

The vibe at Sunflower was fun and drunken. We mainly had one day of drinking, one day of recovery. I loved Long Street the backpackers party spot and Jo'burg in particular. We were a a little merry and while some hesitated at the door, I jumped right in, grabbed a few of the locals and started a dance circle while we danced to hip hop and R&B. I also had massive culture shock in a gay bar on Pride weekend, which I got over when we got to dancing to the heavy dance music. I also have to point out that I ate a lot of sushi and read a lot of comics on my hang over days so they were not a waste of time!!

Despite all the drinking I did manage to climb Table Mountain with some new found friends, Anouk and Bart from the Netherlands and Chloe, a Scot who's been travelling most of her life. The mountain was pretty cloudy, so after the first hour or so visibility went down to about 10m. It was actually quite fun as the mountain took on a weird, mysterious, ethereal quality. Later in the week Chloe and I climbed Lions head for sunset with Tina, who had just moved to Cale Town to start an internship in journalism and Brad and Krissie a couple from America who were really sweet. The sunset was beautiful and Chloe, Tina and I all drank a beer at the top - we were the only ones on the mountain prepared, I felt smug about that! I also found out that Chloe has a mean 'move bitch get out the way' hustle when she thinks she's going to miss a sunset!! It's also worth noting that the best view of Cape Town is from Lion's Head as it doesn't look like Cape Town if you can't see Table Mt. The five of us formed a bit of a posse which was great and I have to admit I miss them all. 

We (minus Tina) also went to the botanical gardens in Kistenbosch which were nice and had good cake. I wish I had been able to get tickets to see a Sunday night performance there though. 

One trip I can definitely reccomend is the Baz Bus Cape Peninsular tour. It ticks off a lot of the boxes. Seal island was great, though I'm not convinced that in parts it's not just a pile of seals ontop of each other... So many seals! The boulders beach Penguins were cute too.

I also went on a wine tour which was a lot of fun. Wine Flies (the tour company) are the only ones who offer wine and cheese, plus wine and chocolate pairing sessions. I was trashed by the end and took one of their hats (they said it was ok). When I got back I met up with Steph and Marie-Helene, two flight attendants from Montreal. These girls are super fun and got me hugely drunk at this great restaurant. It was my fault really, it was something like 11:30pm and I mentioned it was my birthday the next day. I would have done the same thing. We ended the night with Steph displaying her awesome rap skills at the bar in the backpackers.

The next day, my birthday started off a little hazy, but good all in all. I went out off cruise with Neinke (who I met in Transkei), her friend York and Tina who had by that point moved into her new place. The yatch was amazing and the sunset beautiful, but the night was made when we saw a whale about three meters away from the boat. One more thing ticked off the bucket list!

If that wasn't enough drinking the next day I met Tina's new flat mate Caroline and her friends Charlene and Machael. We went out and I ended up at Tina's flat, but it was OK as they got me to the airport. What was not OK was 24hrs+ flying and trying to sleep in Dubai airport! 

So that in a nutshell is my time in Cale Town, I'm sure I've missed out loads and I really do have a few more people to me too mention. Alba and Cathy keep it fashionable. Bill where'd you go? Wine Flies companions hope you all recovered and got home safe!

Can't believe my South African adventure is over. I've loved it and will definitely be back!

Wilderness, Oudtshoorn and Mossel Bay

It's been an active few days involving long hikes and longer cycle rides. Plus some rather interesting conversations...

The last thing I would say before we get into it is that Wilderness gave me a lot of time to reflect as I chose to be alone for most of the time - I think I had a case of 'new people overload'. During this time I had a couple of what I'm going to call 'travel epiphanies'. 

1) If you have a connection with someone - be it friendship or more, chase it down. Don't be afraid to say, hey wanna swap details, even if you've just met? The chances are they are probably thinking the same thing and you could end up being good mates and good friends can be hard to find, which brings me onto...

2) I'm discovering that I don't like everyone, I've just, quite subconsciously, chosen the people I hang out with up to this point to suit my own likings. Though I am very flexible and accommodating, I've realized that I don't need to bend myself out of shape to accept someone who is fundamentally not good for me. Now that sounds quite serious, but I think what I mean is that I don't need to put up with people who are rude, or negative in their outlook. If it might actually kill someone to smile once in a while, I don't need to hang out with them or try to understand them. They are them, I am me and we can quite happily go our own ways.

Wilderness

So Wilderness was OK, as a place it has a nice beach and an few shops. I had a great night with a group of international students studying at Cape Town University, who invited me to dinner, which then became drinks where I met this painter, sculptor and carpenter called Neil, along with his wife and his mother, plus his dog Joy, who was the cutest! Our now extended group then headed back to the backpackers where everyone (especially me) got drunk. At one point a dog attacked Joy and I heard her whining in pain from across the bar an went running over. I gave her big hugs and she threw her head on my shoulder and calmed down - this was the moment that tipped the balance and made me a dog (and cat) person. I then made friends with a bunch of Germans and the night ended with some bloke trying to convince me and another guy to have a threesome, that's when I went to my own bed alone!

The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful. I went paragliding with a girl that I met. It was nice being up there, very peaceful, though I didn't like how the instructor kept forcefully hitting on the girl I had come with, but as she didn't mind I didn't say anything. If it had been one of my friends I would have gone into full protective mode for sure!

I also did a local hike twice which was paved for most of the way (so actually just walking), though I did take a harder non-paved route up a mountain which was actually hiking.

That was about it really, the beach house where I stayed was very nice and the view of the beach from the bedrooms was amazing! Though you had to pay for WiFi and it didn't come cheap...

Oudtshoorn

I love this place and specifically the Paradise and Joyrides backpackers! It's such a great place and the staff make it so much better. Plus free WiFi and ostrich egg in the morning (not whole ones, have you seen an ostrich egg?!).

I arrived and immediately hit it off with Petra an Greg at the check in desk and got to my dorm which was nice and all mine for my entire trip. At one point three mini busses turned up and they still had enough room to give me a dorm to myself!

The atmosphere is laid back and I'd suggest trying the cinnamon rolls, they're cooked daily. Petra insisted I had it warmed through and was she ever right! Dangerous NOM!

The next day I took on the backpackers most challenging tour by myself. 54km of cycling from the top of the mountain range (oudtshoorn is inland, mountainous and arid), to the backpacker, taking in the Congo caves and an ostrich farm on the way. 

The caves were magnificent and very tight in some places - not for the claustrophobic at all. That being said it wasn't overly challenging to do the avdenture tour and the cold and dark was a welcome break from the dry heat on land.

The Ostritch farm was great and I got to sit on an Ostritch, though you'll see from the picture I more held myself over it as I was worried I might be too heavy for it. I also fed the ostriches. They really pinch if you're not careful! 

I also ate there, ostrich of course. It's weird that the meat is more like stead or venison than chicken or turkey given that ostrich mean is lean and poultry.

The final leg of my journey to the hostel was the hardest as the wind was relentless and all the down hill elements were behind me. I was mess by the time I got back, but everyone at the hostel congratulated me. It was a really nice feeling.

What also made my time at Oudtshoorn great was the company. I met a very inspiring couple from the UK in their fifties (Hi Barry and Sarah if you're reading) who invited me to join their table when I walked into the eating area looking a bit lost. These guys are travel masters and certainly got me thinking about more travel destinations and much more besides as we discussed various topics  over the course of my stay. 

I think that the only thing left to tell you is that the music in Paradise backpackers is amazing! By day they play really cool, relaxed remixes of artists like CSS and Doves alongside Garbage and Lamb. By night they played Bowie and The Stones! Amazing.

And on that note, I think I've come to the end of this blog. Hope you enjoyed. As alway please comment, share, etc. it gives me joy to see that someone is reading this :)

Mossel Bay

My final stop before Cape Town was Mossel Bay. I have to say, after hearing so many good things about the place, I was a little underwhelmed. It didn't help that it rained most of the time I was there. I did stay on a converted train, which was fun and the woman at the check-in desk said I was very handsome, something she then shared with the 'carriage', embarrassing, but I'm not complaining!

I think people love it because it's their first taste of South Aftica outside of Cape Town, but to be honest the town is nonexistent and the beaches in Transkei are much better. If you just want to chill on the beach it's a good spot though.

Storms River and The Crags

 

This section of my journey has been fairly idilic at times and adrenaline fueled at others having taken in amazing hikes and the world's largest commercial bungee jump.

The Crags

I started in the Wild Spirit backpackers, which I had been referred to by a lot of people. It's an amazing backpackers with a brilliant view of the surrounding mountains.

After arriving I was soon onto the area's main attraction. The Bloukrans bungee jump is the tallest commercial bungee jump in the world at over 216 meters. Having sky dived and bungeed before I thought I would be cool and pull my best James Bond impression as I threw myself off the bridge. However, when you look over the edge, that bravado seems to disappear. The team are really good at getting you over and I did the jump. In total you fall about 185 meters and its a weird experience. My mind couldn't really comprehend what was happening at first and everything seemed to slow down and then it all came hurtling toward me. The strangest part was the hanging once it was done, you're all full of adrenaline and then you just have to hang there. I was convinced my feet were going to slip through, but apparently this is normal. I'm glad I did it!

The rest of my stay involved a lot of hiking, which I am loving. I've been trying to do as much as possible as its great fun and good exercise. During the hike (which is free including our rather full shuttle), we (pic below L to R: two Danish girls, Irene, me and Dom) saw a huge variety of landscapes and an amazing lagoon, though the most memorable sight has to be a dead jellyfish being eaten by these weird snails, that was just plain odd.

Storms River

After a couple of days I then went to Storms River to meet up with a friend and ended up bumping into an English doctor called Sarah (hi Sarah). We soon became firm friends and spent the rest of the trip together. We hiked the Tsitsikamma park together which was stunning, the suspension bridge is fun and jumping from rock to rock along the beach is brilliant. We also met a guy called Ruben and explored a cave where we came up close and personal with a tiny and very cute bat :).

The best bit had to be the waterfall though. The water itself is brown as it had been dyed by the local plants, so swimming in the pool was like being in a big cup of black tea. Also the water was hot in some places and freezing in others as the water from the fall mixed with that of the pool - It's a unique experience.

Sarah an I also did a canopy zip line tour which was a little less thrilling after the bungee jump, but still a great way to see the first from a different angle.

I'm now in Wilderness, but I'll tell you about that another time :)

South Africa - Cinsta/Chinsta ad Hogsback

One of Hogsback's many waterfalls

So my latest adventure has been another big surprise. I'm always dumbfounded by the welcoming nature of the South African people and the wide variety of beautiful landscapes to enjoy.

From the jagged multicolored rocks of the tranquil Transkei, I made my way to Cinsta (aka Chinsta) and the Buccaneers backpackers, which is peaceful in its own way and not as dramatic to look at. Cinsta feels a little more developed and is perfect for people who want to kick back, but don't want to forgo hot water and electricity. There I was met by Meg, who was brilliant, really welcoming and the source of all knowledge for my stay. I was only there a night before heading off to Hogsback where I looked forward to washing in a bathtub set on the top of a cliff and taking pictures of Cape Parrots...

Neither of those things happened because, as I soon found out, Hogsback is not so much a place as a community and what makes it truly special are the local people, who are hugely welcoming and a lot of fun. 

On my first night I was determined to make the most of the area and went on a short pre-dinner hike. The map they have and the signs in the forest leave a lot to be desired and I was truly lost gone sun down. Luckily after a few additional hours I found someone to direct me and managed to find my way... At least I got to know the area. Seething I got back, but before I could vent I started chatting to some of the guests and then the one girl party that is Jen came in with a friend and rounded up a group to play kings... If you don't know kings the game goes like this... 1) take a pack of cards 2) drink until you are wrecked. This then became a big night and we went to another bar, the Hogsback inn, where we met more of the local people, Licia, Morgs, Grant, Luca and the Germans (volunteers for a local youth project). A few hours later I found myself on the back of a pickup that had run out of diesel, minus my phone. Undeterred we found our way to a house and went skinny dipping because we were drunk. It was a fun time.

The next day was spent chatting and sitting by the fire.

The day after looked to be much the same, but as I didn't have my phone I had to go back to the Hogsback, where low and behold I was greeted by my new found friends who had all finished a big sporting event. We started drinking and before the night was out I was dancing on a bar and had checked out of my backpackers to go stay at Jen's place. This was not the best preparation for mountain biking and abseiling...

The next day I was at the mountain biking office at 9am - I was very proud of myself. Neels an Candy, the owners of Hogsback Adventures, the company that organizes the activities, then took us biking up to the areas most impressive waterfall Madonna and Child. This waterfall is impressive and fits into the scenery, which inspired J. R. R. Tolkien when writing The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings.  With all the recent rain it was touch and go as to whether we could abseil down, but thankfully we were on the right side of the cusp. The abseiling was great and Candy was really good at talking me over the edge. I went down well and the guys said I did it like a pro, which they didn't say to the other guy that was with me!

After that Jen, Grant and I had a movie night at Grant's MASSIVE place. The following morning was my time to go sadly, but I would love to have stayed.

Back in Cinsta I checked into the Buccaneers and within 10 minutes had made friends with a Dutch girl called Sue. We soon became fast friends and hung out the entire time. We went horseback riding along the beach - just like in the Old Spice advert. It was a really good experience as we didn't just do a little walk, but got to trot, canter and take on some more hilly terrain. We also did yoga and spent a day totally chilled. This visit was a bit different as Sue and I found the Crawfords, a fancy hotel, and sat by their pool a lot drinking G&Ts with cucumber and black pepper (something I picked up from Simon in Transkei).

Again I wish I could have stayed longer, but it was the right time to go as I would have just been lying around if I had stayed. The only regret is that I couldn't have stayed one more night as Jen was headed to Cinsta, but I had already ordered my Baz Bus and would have lost my ticket if I had not gotten on. I hope that one day I'll be able to come back and spend time with Jen and my new friends in Hogsback.

On a side note, my new music obsession is Birdie - Shelter (Photek remix)

Field of dandilions outside Hogsback forest

New friends at the Hogsback Inn

View looking out of the Hogsback forest

South Africa - Transkei

Transkei, I loved this area of South Africa. It's easy to understand why they call it the wild coast. The scenery is dramatic, with the sea rushing up against the jagged rocks that sit between the bay's and lagoons. It's also wild in another way, it's a lot less developed than the rest of the coast, which a is a fantastic thing. There's a big emphasis on Eco-living and living with the local community. As such some of the backpackers don't have electricity or running water outside of the main buildings - this is a good thing. 

Transkei roughly translates to across the Kei, referring to the Great Kei River, which in turn got its name for the Dutch for rocky, as the bed of the river is indeed, rocky. 

I started my adventure in the Mdumbi backpackers, which was nice but as the weather wasn't great there wasn't a lot to do. However I made friends with Simon, a German stone mason and tattoo artist and Neinke, a photography student from Cape Town. We soon formed a little group and headed to Coffee Bay and the Coffee Shack backpackers which is great if you want to socialise, which we did and got very drunk. On a side note we had great pizza at Pappazella's - so I'd suggest you check that out if you're there.

We were only there the night and the next day Simon suggested I come with him to another backpackers called The Kraal where i could see Dolphins. Unfortunately Nienke had to make her own way and we parted at Mthatha, the central point for most of the Transkei backpackers. 

From Mthatha we took local transport and hitched a lift of a local coach. This got us to Issamella which wasn't as far as we needed to go. Luckily Simon knew two of the doctors there Zo and Tali, who are awesome!! They invited me to stay the night and said I should come camping with them to Dwesa national park in the morning. 

This was a fantastic detour and I got to know the girls well. Zo even gave me her sister's number so I could look her up in Cape Town... How nice is that!! 

Tali then introduced us to her friends (I hope I remember them all) Ash, Kirsten, Debbi, Danny and Rachael. They all fed me G&T and we hung out and listened to Ash's great music while she cooked and awesome braai (my first). The next day Zo and I woke up for sunrise which was spectacular and I read my books - Garth Nix's The Old Kingdom trilogy. Later that day Zo drove Simon and I to The Kraal.

The Kraal is amazing, I did loads of things for the first time. I walked through herds of cows, petted donkeys on the beach, saw tonnes of dolphins, stood on the back of a pick up truck, bought seafood from a local fisherman, drew a tattoo stencil... And much more besides, all while soaking up the beautiful sunshine and relaxing on the beautiful coastline. 

I also bumped into Simone (yes it was me, Simon and Simone hanging out for a while), who I had met on the Baz Bus and who was going to visit her relatives in Storms River. We took Wasabi, my favourite dog from the backpackers on a walk to the next bay and she very kindly offered to make me a braai when I go to Storms River, so I'm looking forward to that. It will be a good way to celebrate having completed the Bloukrans Bungee jump, the highest bridge jump in the world!! 

Wish me luck,