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Saturday, 31 January 2015

Advice and things to know about Johannesburg

A half day trip to the Lion Park gives you the opportunity to play with the cubs and walk with a cheetah!
Playing with the cubs in the Lion Park
Want to know a bit more about Jo'burg and it's people? Well here's some stuff I found out while I was there. The video is choc-full of info and tips if you plan to visit, so give it a watch.

Johannesburg facts:

  • Population: 750,000 + 
  • Currency: South African Rand (ZAR), which is equivelent to 0.056 GBP
  • Official languages: 11 including English, Afrikaans and Zulu
  • Johannesbug is named after two founding officials named Johann Friedrich Bernard and Christiaan Johannes Joubert. However this is widely contested as there were many officials involved with founding the city who had names including Johann/Johannes
  • As with the rest of South Africa, Johannesburg was under apartheid until 1994. To put that in perspective, man landed on the moon in in 1969, 25 years prior!

Johannesburg tips: 

Go on a group safari, much better than going it alone
  • Do a group safari in Kruger National Park, you'll meet some great people (I know I did) and having more sets of eyes will pay off - our guide spotted less than a third of the animals we did. 
  • Group safaris also allow you to share pictures and photos if you create a shared DropBox, GDrive, etc
  • You can book to go to a Lion Park with a day's notice, so if your safari is rainy (as mine was), you can still see the big cats and even play with them, which is worth it in itself
  • Don't be afraid - although the homes are quite intimidating with their high walls, barbed wire, etc it's not too bad. That doesn't mean you should be wrekless though!
  • Take public transport, I took the Gautrain and it was brilliant, plus they have special carriages for people going to the airport. The Gautrain busses are also great. For both you'll need to pick up a Gold Card at the station which works much like any other transport charge card
  • When booking a lion park, do your research. I heard a lot of horror stories about places that raise lions for 'canned hunting, especially in other African countries

Monday, 19 January 2015

World trip: Johannesburg, Kruger National Park, Lion Park and Apartheid Museum


Cheetah walk at Lion Park Johannesburg

Cheetah at Lion Park
Johannesburg is a great destination and starting point for a trip across the country to Cape Town. Having arrived a day late from Cameroon, I had two weeks to enjoy the city and all it had to offer including Kruger National Park, the Lion Park and the Apartheid Museum. I split my time between Boksburg on the outskirts and Rosebank in the middle of things.

I'm going to try a different format with this blog to see if it's more helpful and easier to digest. I'm going to break it down into accomodation and different activities. Hopefully this will help me to marshall my thoughts a bit too.


So...

Accomodation

The Mbizi Lodge http://www.mbizi.com/home.html
Christmas mug poolside
I got to Johannesburg airport and imediately arranged for a pick up to get me to my first hostel the Mbizi backpackers. I have to say that I loved it here. It was cheap and Patrick the owner looks after you like you're family. It's out of town, but Patrick is more than happy to arrange activities for you and can suggest better alternatives, though he's not pushy if you want to do your own thing. I went to Kruger National Park from here and was the last pick up, so no driving from hostel to hotel for hours pick up and dropping off other people.

There's also a bar (I was offered a free beer on arrival) and a pool, which I used inbetween intense blogging sessions to catch up after Cameroon. I must admit hanging poolside was a new one for me and didn't feel as Christmassy as any other December I've had, but I did find a mug to remind me of the season.

I'd suggest that if you want a base to arrange activities such as safaris, visitin the Lion Park, etc, that this would be a good place to go.

Rosebank Lodge

It's cheap, not neccesarily cheerful, but cheap. Also the paid for internet was sketchy at best, but you can log onto another network that is unsecured if you like. The main thing with the Rosebank is that it's in a good location. It's by the Gautrain making it easy to get to Pretoria and the O.R. Tambo airport. It's also a few minutes walk from Rosebank mall which has a local market - perfect for picking up gifts, plus there are bars in walking distance/a short bus ride away.

Safari in Kruger National Park http://www.marcstreehouselodge.com/feedback.php
I did a four day (three night) safari, with one day in the park itself. The First day I was picked up and met the seven other people I would be doing the safari with. We were then taken to a lodge in the area surrounding the park. The accomodation was really nice and more importantly there were a ton of monkeys around the lodges which were very cheeky (who'd have guessed). Once we had settled in we went on a sunset drive which saw the landscape transform as the sun set before we had dinner in the wild. We saw a few animals, including a mongoose trying to break an egg, lots of Impala (they are EVERYWHERE), male and female kudu, some birds, etc, etc. What was really great was coming across a  breeding herd of elephants, including two tiny babies which were impossibly cute.
Sun setting on our first day of the safari in Johannesburg, South Africa
Sun setting on day 1 of our safari

The next day we took a daytime walk and learned more about tracking animals from our guides and got a
glimpse of hippos in the lakes, which we didn't go too near. It's easy to see why these animals are so dangerous they are HUGE! We also saw an active termite nest, not exactly what you go on safari for, but interesting non the less. The walk was followed by a drive around the park before we headed off to the camp where we were shown to our rooms/tents and had dinner. We also bumped into a group who had come back from Kruger National Park and told us that they had seen pretty much everything the park had to offer as it was such a sunny day. I assume that the animals are too hot and lazy to move from the plains.

So, this is where I got lucky. I had booked a tent (I think) and found myself in a tree house for four with a balcony and what's more it was all mine. I have to say that while the camping sounded fun, I really didn't mind having a private lodge (check out the video to see how awesome it was).

Monkey at our lodge on our way to Kruger National Park
Cheeky monkey at lodge
The next day was the big one, our visit to Kruger National Park and that's when my luck changed. It POURED, which while it makes for cute videos of baboons looking sorry for themselves, also meant that a lot of animals has sought shelter in the trees and bushes. That being said, we saw some bull elephants, more giraffe, hippos, zebra, Impala, Kudu, etc. What really made it was seeing a croc eating a catfish which went on for a while, a hyena and three white rhino.This is where doing a group safari really came into its own. If I'd been on my own with a guide we wouldn't have spotted half the animals we did and more over I wouldn't have enjoyed it half as much, as it was the people I was with that made it a good trip, we all sort of kept each others' spirits up and after a few purchases at the shop (yes they have a shop and some restaurants, which shatters the illusion a little) we played a animal spotting drinking game.

On the way back from the safari we stopped off at Blood River Canyon on the Limpopo river to take photos. It's really breathtaking and I was able to buy a few souveniers from the local people selling items on the roadside.

Two warthogs around six weeks old
Two young warthogs with their mother and father

Zebra in Kruger National Park, Johannesburg, South Africa
Zebra in Kruger National Park


Giraffe in Kruger National Park
Giraffe in Kruger National Park

The Lion Park http://www.lion-park.com/
Playing with lion cub in Lion Park
Playing with lion cub in Lion Park
Having not seen any big cats during the rather wet safari, I decided to go to the Lion Park. A couple from the safari had been and said it was good fun. I was picked up at 8am as I had decided to go as early as possible to avoid the crowds. I started off by playing with the lion cubs, it's only two minutes as they don't want to stress out the cubs, but it was still a fun experience. It would have been better if a certain girl and her daughter hadn't disregarded everyone else and kept running around the place. It was so agrivating, I hate these parents who think just because they've had kids they can go charging around ruining everyone else's time. It's bad manners and they should be teaching their children a bit of decorum (how English was that?!).

With a Cheetah in the Lion Park
I then went onto walk with a cheetah. I was with a French group of three people, so my plan of getting there early really worked. It was a fun experience and as with the lions, the cheetah was very domesticated so I didn't feel unsafe at all. I got to pet the cheetah too and again as with the lions, the hair was quite course and felt like it had sand in it, even though it didn't.

We finally went on a drive around the park proper and saw black buffalo, more impala, springbok, giraffe and other prey animals, before going onto the lion enlosures. There are four prides of lions, one regular and three white. We also got to see some cubs with their families. Seeing the white lions was quite strange as they aren't albino, they just have lighter fur, which in my ignorance I wasn't expecting. It was later explained that the white lions were much like ginger people in that they were perfectly normal they just had recessive pigmentation genes.

The Apartheid Museum and Mandella House

A young Nelson Mandella
These are a definite must see in the town, the museum in particular. Mandella House is also very much worth seeing to find out more about the man and his years before incarceration. However it was the museum that captured my heart and imagination, it was so eye opening to get a better understanding of the struggle and scale of the issue. I knew the theory of apartheid before, but the museum brings it into its terrible detail and tells the story of the two opposing factions. It's laid out in a chronological fashion so you get a sense of the story, the steps forward and back and the number of people who lived and died for equality. I must admit I felt quite emotional at the end, especially reading about individual stories of people who had been involved. However you end feeling amazingly in awe of what was achieved in the fight against prejudice and how they didn't just stop at race but secured freedom for all ending discrimination on the grounds of race, gender disability, sexual orientation, religious belief and so on. I can't say I can remember everything I learned and would suggest if you go that you leave yourself a good amount of time to see and absorb it all.

Tribute to the end of the Apartheid
So that's the main bits. I also went to the Magnum store to make my own ice cream, having missed out on the one in London. It was good fun, but the video covers all that.


Hope you enjoyed it all. I've put more videos of cute animals on the YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/TWINETraveller please do subscribe it will help boost my ego, plus you can follow me on Twitter and Instagram on @The_end_is_Ni or on tumblr on the-end-is-ni which will inflate my ego even further (though be warned you may be creating a monster haha/not joking)
Cheers,

Ni






Tuesday, 13 January 2015

Cameroon: interesting facts and tips

Putting my feet up on Ethiopian Airlines
While putting my feet up on my flight out of Cameroon, I took some inspiration from an Ethiopian Airlines destination guide video and have changed the format of my own tips videos. I hope you like the new format.

Facts about Cameroon:

Population: 22.25m (2013)
Languages: French and English (though a lot of people speak pidgin English)
Currency: Central African Franc. £1 GBP = 825.59 Francs
Cost of a 1.5l bottle of water is 400 Francs (under 50p GBP)
Capital city: Yaounde
Largest city: Douala
Me with a class of children I met while teaching in Cameroon
Some of the children of Cameroon
The name Cameroon comes from the Portuguese Rio dos  camarões which means river of prawns
Cameroon became independent of France and England in 1960
The colours of the Cameroon represent vegetation (green), independence (red) and sunshine (yellow)

Tips for traveling in Cameroon

1) you only pay airport tax (10,000 francs) on the way out of the country. Don't be fooled by anyone in the airport on your way in claiming to be a security guard
2) don't exchange money with the touts at the airport, do it before hand
3) this isn't a luxury holiday so be prepared to rough it. On my trip I had limited access to running water and electricity (though this wasn't necessarily a bad thing)
4) if carrying your passport in your luggage , make sure that once your bag is unlocked it's easy to get to. I had to leave my passport in my bag when my bike broke down as the whole backpack was strapped to the bike meaning I couldn't access it
5) keep your passport on you when traveling as there are a lot of roadside police checks
6) in the rainforest always have water purification tablets and a timer (smart phone) on you, refilling mid hike is a life saver
One taxi I took had 10 people in (7 adults & 3 babies)
7) try public transport a couple of times, but make sure you know the details of a private driver - your hotel should be able to help
8) insect repellant is a must for the rainforest
9) if you have tattoos cover them up, people will stare - I was also told that it was against the word of God
10) Church is very... let's say, old school (you're all sinners unless you stay in the church, God caused 40 days and nights of floods to kill sinners like homosexuals). Only go if you're completely ready for this

Well that's it. Hope you liked it and please do watch the vid, subscribe, like, comment, etc : )

Peace out,

Ni

Monday, 5 January 2015

Life in the Cameroon rainforest - Gorillas and Chimpanzee conservation


This waterfall served as my shower and further upstream my source of water. NB I used water purification tablets. I used this during my volunteer program in wildlife conservation in the Tofala sanctuary in the Cameroon rainforest
My shower for the trip
Life in the rainforest is exhausting in the best possible way. You trek for hours under the shade of the trees recording the signs of animal movement, feeding, etc and the effect of the human population, in challenging terrain - sometimes I thought the forest was actively trying to trip me up. However you know that you are helping an endangered species and feel like you've achieved something, that you've pushed yourself further than expected each day.

Every morning I would get up, have coffee and cornflakes (in the same cup. That's a thing here), trek for hours and come back to the camp exhausted and head to the stream for a wash in the cool, but not cold, crystal clear water. You feel that you are really challenging yourself and getting the best out of your abilities.

Capturing data about the animals was fascinating as I learned, amongst other things, how to identify a Gorilla nest, which is large, well constructed and no higher up than 15m, from a chimpanzee nest. I also learned how
I saw and identified Gorilla nests during my volunteer program in wildlife conservation in the Tofala sanctuary in the Cameroon rainforest
Gorilla nest about 10 meters above ground on one side
to judge the age of signs through looking at any broken vegetation, degradation of footsteps, etc. I could also identify primary forest and the type of plant growth from secondary forest. I got really good at it an by the end was able to do it without help. 

The data collection showed just how varied the wildlife is. Alongside the Gorilla and Chimpanzee signs, we see tiger feeding signs, a bush baby, a Bannermans Koraco (an endangered bird), a tree snake a huge millipede and a praying mantis, not to mention countless types of beautiful butterflies and dragonflies of every colour under the sun. The only thing that creeped me out were the ants, a few were fine, but when you see thousands of huge ants in one massive weaving line, it makes the skin crawl. I was glad I had my trousers tucked into my socks, though some even got through that! 

We saw many signs of human devestation in the rainforest
Sadly hunting is still rife
We also sadly saw signs of human activity, this included cocoa, plantain, banana and other farms that were dotted here and there cutting up the rainforest into tiny uninhabitable sections. There were also a lot of fun shells. While poaching Gorillas and Chimpanzees is illegal, hunters will come to the rainforest for other animals including porcupine, blue da at (a type of bird) and bush babies. The hunting activity obvious scares the Gorillas and Chimpanzees, with recent data showing that the loans Gorillas have been forced to leave their homes and venture further up into the rainforest.

I don't mind that I didn't see any Gorillas or Chimpanzees, as I knew it was unlikely, what with all the farms and hunting, plus I know that the data I collected will be used for ongoing work in protecting these amazing animals. I did however go to Limbe wildlife park which rescues Gorillas from the pet and bush meat trades, both of which are illegal. There I also saw chimpanzees, drills and other primates.

Being in the rainforest was everything I had hoped for and more. Completely cut off from technology, amongst the wild life, cooking on a fire, etc. It was an amazing and humbling experience. It has also reinforced my belief that we should do all we can to save the rainforest as well as its inhabitants and work with the local community to give them alternatives to farming and hunting in the rainforest. It's an important issue, with less than 300 Nigerian Cameroon Cross River Gorillas left in the wild, the species is classified as being critically endangered and could become extinct in the next five to ten years!